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Phoenix Container Gardening: Your Complete Guide to Thriving in Zone 9b Desert Heat

Phoenix presents the most extreme container gardening environment in North America. With 100+ days over 100°F, summer highs exceeding 115°F, and intense Sonoran Desert sun, conventional gardening wisdom doesn't apply here. But here's the secret Phoenix gardeners know: flip your calendar upside down. While the rest of the country battles winter, Phoenix enjoys perfect 70-80°F growing weather from October through March. This guide shows you exactly how to work with Phoenix's unique climate—embracing the incredible winter growing season, surviving summer dormancy, and navigating monsoon challenges—to harvest fresh vegetables year-round from your balcony or patio.

Understanding Phoenix's Extreme Climate (Zone 9b)

Phoenix Advantages

  • Winter paradise: 60-80°F days perfect for vegetables Oct-March
  • Rare freezes: Average only 10-15 nights below 32°F annually
  • 300+ sunny days: Abundant light for photosynthesis
  • Low humidity: Minimal fungal disease pressure
  • Extended harvest: Tomatoes produce October-May (7 months!)

Phoenix Challenges

  • Extreme heat: 100+ days above 100°F, peaks at 115-120°F
  • Intense UV: Sunscald damages plants and overheats containers
  • Container heat: Soil reaches 130°F+ in dark pots during summer
  • Monsoon flooding: July-Sept storms dump inches of rain in hours
  • Alkaline water: Phoenix tap water pH 8.0-8.5 affects nutrient uptake

The Phoenix Mindset Shift

Success in Phoenix requires inverting everything you know about gardening seasons. Winter is your summer. October through March, Phoenix enjoys the perfect growing conditions that northern gardeners dream about—mild days, cool nights, and zero humidity. Meanwhile, summer is your winter—a survival period where the goal is simply keeping plants alive until fall. Embrace this rhythm, and you'll discover Phoenix offers one of the longest productive growing windows in the country.

The Sonoran Desert presents unique opportunities alongside its challenges. While summer forces a gardening pause, the six-month window from October to March allows you to grow virtually any vegetable that would thrive in a moderate climate's summer. Tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, and all the greens flourish when planted at the right time. The key is understanding that Phoenix operates on its own calendar—and once you align with it, container gardening becomes remarkably rewarding.

Phoenix Container Planting Calendar

Phoenix's inverted seasons mean timing is everything. This month-by-month guide shows exactly when to plant, what to grow, and how to maximize your desert growing potential. Remember: fall is your spring, winter is your summer, and actual summer is for survival planning.

September 15 - October 31: PRIME PLANTING SEASON

Average temps: 90-100°F dropping to 75-85°F by late October | This is Phoenix's most important planting window!

This is Phoenix's "Spring"—Plant Everything Now!

While summer heat lingers, soil temperatures are finally cooling below 85°F, allowing seeds to germinate and transplants to establish. By mid-October, conditions are ideal. Plants started now mature during perfect November-January weather.

Plant Now (Transplants):

  • Tomatoes (heat-set varieties) - Will produce Nov-May!
  • Peppers (all types) - Excellent fall/winter production
  • Eggplant - Thrives in warm fall soil
  • Squash, cucumbers - Plant early September for fall harvest

Direct Seed:

  • All greens - Lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula, chard
  • Root vegetables - Carrots, beets, radishes, turnips
  • Herbs - Cilantro, parsley, dill (won't bolt in cool weather!)
  • Beans, peas - Bush varieties for container success

Pro Tips:

  • Start tomato/pepper seeds indoors with AC in August for September transplanting
  • Provide 30% shade cloth through September if temps exceed 100°F
  • Water transplants daily until established (first 2-3 weeks)

November - December: Peak Harvest & Winter Planting

Average temps: 65-75°F days, 40-50°F nights | First frost potential: Late December (not guaranteed)

Now Harvesting:

  • Fall-planted tomatoes beginning production
  • Peppers, eggplant in full swing
  • Lettuce, greens, herbs abundantly
  • Radishes, first carrots and beets

Still Planting:

  • All greens - Perfect conditions, no bolting
  • Peas - Ideal cool-season crop for Phoenix
  • Brassicas - Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage transplants
  • Root vegetables - Succession plant for continuous harvest

Frost protection: Phoenix frosts are light (28-32°F) and brief. Cover containers with sheets or frost cloth when overnight lows dip below 35°F. Most established plants survive Phoenix freezes without damage.

January - February: Winter Growing & Spring Prep

Average temps: 65-70°F days, 40-45°F nights | Last frost: Mid-February typically

Peak Production:

  • Tomatoes producing heavily (harvest before heat returns)
  • Broccoli, cauliflower ready for harvest
  • Peas climbing and producing
  • All greens at peak quality

Plant Now (Last Chance for Many):

  • Quick greens - Last plantings before heat (30-40 day varieties)
  • Potatoes - February planting for May harvest
  • Onions, garlic - Plant sets for spring harvest

Start Indoors:

  • Tomatoes, peppers seeds for spring transplant (March)

March - April: Race Against Rising Heat

Average temps: 75-90°F (March), 85-95°F (April) | Warning: Heat arrives fast—90°F+ by late March some years

March Plantings (Move Fast!):

  • Tomatoes (transplants) - Last chance, choose heat-tolerant varieties
  • Peppers (transplants) - Handle heat better than tomatoes
  • Squash, melons - Direct seed early March only
  • Basil (Thai varieties) - Heat tolerant herbs

Stop Planting by April:

  • All cool-season crops (lettuce, peas, broccoli, cilantro)
  • Most tomatoes (flowers drop above 95°F)
  • Standard cucumbers and squash

Important Actions:

  • Harvest winter crops aggressively before they bolt
  • Install shade cloth structures for summer protection

May - June: Entering the Hot Gap

Average temps: 95-105°F (May), 105-110°F (June) | Reality: First 110°F+ days, triple-digit streaks begin

What Still Produces:

  • Peppers - Often survive and produce into June
  • Last tomatoes - Existing fruit ripens but new flowers drop
  • Mediterranean herbs - Rosemary, oregano, thyme persist

Transition to Summer Mode:

  • Deploy 60-80% shade cloth over all containers
  • Switch to twice-daily watering (5am and 6pm)
  • Move containers to north-facing walls if possible
  • Plant only extreme heat-lovers (see summer section)

July - August: Survival Mode + Monsoon Season

Average temps: 105-115°F days, 85-90°F nights | Monsoon: July 15-Sept 15 brings sudden, violent storms

The Only Summer Survivors:

  • Moringa - Thrives in extreme heat, edible leaves
  • Armenian cucumber - More heat-tolerant than regular cukes
  • Malabar spinach - Tropical vine that loves heat
  • Yard-long beans - Heat-loving Asian variety
  • Sweet potato vines - Ornamental and edible
  • Roselle hibiscus - Makes hibiscus tea, loves heat

Monsoon Preparation:

  • Ensure all containers have excellent drainage
  • Elevate containers on pot feet (water can pool quickly)
  • Check weather daily—storms form within hours
  • Move containers under cover during active monsoon

Fall Prep (Critical!):

  • Mid-August: Start tomato/pepper seeds indoors with AC
  • Refresh soil in empty containers, add compost

Honest truth: July-August in Phoenix is brutal. Most vegetables simply cannot survive 115°F+ heat regardless of care. This is normal—don't feel discouraged! Focus on keeping perennial herbs alive, prepping for fall, and starting transplants indoors. Your reward comes in October when perfect growing weather returns.

September: The Transition Month

Average temps: 100-105°F early month dropping to 90-95°F by month's end | Monsoon: Usually ends mid-September

Early September (Still Hot):

  • Wait for soil temps to drop below 90°F before transplanting
  • Continue indoor seedling care (tomatoes, peppers)
  • Direct seed Armenian cucumbers, summer squash

Late September (Game On!):

  • Transplant tomatoes and peppers (week 3-4)
  • Direct seed lettuce, spinach, radishes
  • Plant herb transplants (cilantro, parsley, dill)
  • Begin the main fall planting season!

Top 10 Container Crops for Phoenix Success

These crops are proven winners for Phoenix containers, selected for their ability to thrive in Zone 9b's extreme conditions. Focus on the winter growing season (October-March) for maximum success, and choose heat-adapted varieties for extended shoulder seasons.

1. Tomatoes (7-Month Season!)

Best: Oct-May

Best varieties: Phoenix, Solar Fire, Heatwave II (heat-set); Celebrity, Early Girl (standard) | Container: 10+ gallons | Plant: Oct-Nov (fall), Feb-March (spring)

Phoenix offers an incredibly long tomato season—plant in October and harvest through May. That's seven months of fresh tomatoes! The key is choosing heat-set varieties that continue producing in warmer temperatures. Fall-planted tomatoes are superior: they establish in cooling weather, produce heavily through winter's perfect conditions, and often survive into late spring. Avoid summer entirely—flowers drop above 95°F, and fruit sunscalds in 110°F+ heat.

2. Peppers (Heat Champions)

Best: Oct-June

Best varieties: Jalapeño, Serrano, Anaheim, Thai chili, Shishito | Container: 5-7 gallons | Plant: Oct-Nov (fall), Feb-March (spring)

Peppers handle Phoenix heat better than almost any vegetable. They'll produce from October through June with proper care, often surviving summer dormancy to rebound in fall. Hot peppers tolerate heat stress better than bells. Fall-planted peppers overwinter beautifully and explode with production in spring. Consider them semi-perennial in Phoenix—with protection, a single plant can produce for 2-3 years.

3. Lettuce & Salad Greens (Winter Abundance)

Best: Oct-March

Best varieties: Buttercrunch, Red Sails, Jericho (heat-tolerant), Oak Leaf, Romaine | Container: 2-3 gallons | Plant: Sept-Feb

Phoenix winters are lettuce paradise—60-75°F days are exactly what greens want. Plant every 2-3 weeks October through February for continuous salads. Unlike northern gardeners fighting bolting, your Phoenix greens stay sweet and tender for months. The challenge is timing: plant too early (September heat) and seeds won't germinate; plant too late (March) and they bolt as temperatures rise. Red and bronze varieties show slightly better heat tolerance for shoulder seasons.

4. Kale & Swiss Chard (Extended Harvest)

Best: Oct-May

Best varieties: Lacinato (Dinosaur) kale, Red Russian kale, Bright Lights chard | Container: 3-5 gallons | Plant: Sept-Nov

These hearty greens outlast lettuce in Phoenix, producing from October well into May. They handle light frost without protection and tolerate warming spring temperatures better than delicate salad greens. Plant once in fall and harvest continuously for 6-7 months by picking outer leaves. Lacinato kale shows best overall heat tolerance. Chard's colorful stems add ornamental value to container gardens.

5. Carrots, Beets & Radishes (Underground Success)

Best: Oct-March

Best varieties: Nantes carrots, Chioggia beets, French Breakfast radishes | Container: 12+ inches deep for carrots, 8+ inches for beets/radishes | Plant: Oct-Feb

Root vegetables thrive in Phoenix's cool-season window. Radishes mature in 25-30 days for quick gratification. Carrots need 70-80 days but reward patience with exceptional sweetness—cool Phoenix nights develop sugars beautifully. Beets offer both roots and edible greens. Succession plant every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest. Use deep containers (12+ inches minimum) and loose, sandy potting mix for straight roots.

6. Mediterranean Herbs (Year-Round Survivors)

Best: Year-round

Best varieties: Rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage, lavender | Container: 2-5 gallons | Plant: Any time (fall best)

These Mediterranean natives are perfectly adapted to Phoenix's desert climate—they evolved in similar hot, dry conditions. Once established, they're virtually indestructible, surviving summer heat with minimal care. They prefer being slightly dry, tolerate alkaline Phoenix water, and actually produce more flavorful oils under mild drought stress. Plant in fall for best establishment. Reduce watering in summer but don't abandon entirely.

7. Cilantro & Parsley (Cool-Season Stars)

Best: Oct-April

Best varieties: Slow-bolt cilantro (Santo, Calypso), Italian flat-leaf parsley | Container: 2-3 gallons | Plant: Oct-Feb

Cilantro and parsley bolt instantly in Phoenix heat—but they flourish October through April. Plant every 3-4 weeks for continuous harvest. Phoenix winters are perfect: cilantro stays leafy instead of bolting to seed. For year-round cilantro flavor, let some plants bolt and collect coriander seeds. Parsley is more heat-tolerant than cilantro and may last into May with afternoon shade.

8. Peas (Winter Climbing Crop)

Best: Nov-March

Best varieties: Sugar snap, snow peas, shelling peas | Container: 5+ gallons with trellis | Plant: Oct-Dec

Peas love cool weather—and Phoenix delivers perfect pea-growing conditions October through March. They need support (trellis, cage, or netting) but reward with heavy yields of sweet pods. Plant in October-November for December-March harvest. Sugar snap peas are most versatile—eat pods, peas, and shoots. Morning sun with afternoon shade extends production as spring warms.

9. Broccoli & Cauliflower (Container Brassicas)

Best: Nov-Feb

Best varieties: Di Cicco broccoli (small heads, continuous harvest), Snow Crown cauliflower | Container: 7-10 gallons | Plant: Oct-Nov (transplants)

These cool-season brassicas thrive in Phoenix winters. Plant transplants in October-November for January-March harvest. Choose Di Cicco broccoli for containers—it produces smaller main heads followed by continuous side shoots. Cauliflower is more finicky but rewards with beautiful heads. Both need consistent moisture and benefit from afternoon shade. Large containers (7-10 gallons) are essential for proper head development.

10. Summer Heat Warriors (The Brave Few)

For Summer

Options: Armenian cucumber, Malabar spinach, moringa, yard-long beans, roselle hibiscus | Container: 5-10 gallons | Plant: April-June

If you're determined to grow through Phoenix summer, these are your only options. Moringa (the "drumstick tree") produces edible leaves and thrives in extreme heat. Malabar spinach is a tropical vine unrelated to true spinach that loves 100°F+ weather. Armenian cucumbers tolerate heat better than standard varieties. Yard-long beans are heat-adapted Asian legumes. Roselle hibiscus makes tea and produces in summer heat. All need heavy shade cloth (60-80%) and twice-daily watering.

Surviving Phoenix Extreme Heat: Critical Strategies

Phoenix's 115°F+ summer heat is in a category of its own. These aren't optional tips—they're survival requirements for any container plant attempting to make it through June to September.

Use Massive Containers (10+ Gallons)

Small containers are death sentences in Phoenix summer. Soil in 5-gallon pots can reach 130°F+, cooking roots instantly.

  • Minimum 10 gallons for tomatoes, peppers, squash in summer
  • 5 gallons minimum for herbs and smaller plants
  • Larger soil mass stays cooler and retains moisture longer
  • Use white, tan, or terracotta pots—black pots absorb deadly heat

Deploy Serious Shade Cloth (60-80%)

Arizona sun is significantly more intense than other regions. Even "full sun" plants need protection above 105°F.

  • 60-80% shade cloth is standard for Phoenix summer (not 30-50%)
  • Install shade structures by May 1, remove by October
  • Position containers against north-facing walls
  • Use buildings, trees, or structures for natural afternoon shade

Water Twice Daily (Dawn & Dusk)

Phoenix evaporation rates are extreme. Containers can lose all moisture in hours during peak heat.

  • Morning watering: 5-6am before heat builds (most important)
  • Evening watering: 6-7pm as temperatures drop (helps overnight recovery)
  • Never water midday—water evaporates before roots absorb
  • Water deeply until it drains from bottom

Heavy Mulching (3-4 Inches)

Bare soil in Phoenix containers is a disaster—it overheats and loses moisture rapidly.

  • Apply 3-4 inches of wood chips, straw, or shredded bark
  • Reduces soil temperature by 15-20°F
  • Cuts evaporation by 50-70%
  • Refresh monthly as mulch decomposes in intense heat

Strategic Container Grouping

Isolated containers heat up faster and dry out quicker. Grouping creates beneficial microclimates.

  • Group containers together to share humidity from transpiration
  • Place against north or east-facing walls for natural shade
  • Use taller heat-tolerant plants to shade smaller containers
  • Avoid west and south exposures in summer

Address Alkaline Water

Phoenix tap water runs pH 8.0-8.5, which can cause nutrient lockout over time.

  • Add sulfur or acidifying fertilizers periodically
  • Use quality potting mix with peat (naturally acidic)
  • Watch for yellowing leaves (iron chlorosis from high pH)
  • Foliar feed with chelated iron if chlorosis appears

Monsoon Season Preparation (July-September)

Phoenix's monsoon season brings dramatic weather shifts. After months of dry heat, sudden violent storms can dump 1-2 inches of rain in an hour, create flash floods, and knock over containers with strong winds. Preparation is essential.

Drainage Requirements

  • Ensure every container has large drainage holes (3/4" minimum)
  • Elevate containers on pot feet or bricks
  • Use fast-draining potting mix with perlite
  • Check that drainage holes aren't blocked by roots

Storm Preparation

  • Check weather daily—monsoon storms form within hours
  • Move containers under covered patios when storms approach
  • Secure tall plants and trellises against wind
  • Weight down lightweight containers that could blow over

After Storm Care

  • Tip waterlogged containers to drain excess water immediately
  • Skip watering for 2-3 days after heavy monsoon rain
  • Watch for root rot signs (yellowing, wilting despite wet soil)
  • Remove damaged leaves and branches

Monsoon Benefits

  • Humidity relief helps stressed plants recover
  • Rainwater is naturally soft and acidic (great for plants!)
  • Cloud cover provides natural shade during storms
  • Temperature drops of 20-30°F give plants relief

Phoenix Winter Growing: Your Secret Advantage

While gardeners across the country battle snow and frozen soil, Phoenix container gardeners enjoy what may be the best winter growing conditions in the continental United States. October through March offers 60-80°F days, cool nights that develop flavor, minimal pest pressure, and low disease risk. This is your prime season—embrace it!

Perfect Temperatures

Phoenix winter temperatures (60-75°F days, 40-50°F nights) match ideal growing conditions for most vegetables. Tomatoes, peppers, greens, and root vegetables all thrive in this range—it's what northern gardeners experience in their short summer windows.

Minimal Pest Pressure

Most garden pests are dormant or sluggish in cool weather. Aphids, spider mites, and hornworms that devastate summer gardens are rarely problems October through February. This means healthier plants with less intervention.

Reduced Watering Needs

Lower temperatures mean dramatically reduced evaporation. Containers that need twice-daily watering in summer may only need watering every 2-3 days in winter. This saves water, time, and reduces the risk of overwatering.

Superior Flavor Development

Cool nights stimulate sugar development in vegetables. Winter-grown carrots, beets, and greens are noticeably sweeter than their summer counterparts. Even tomatoes develop more complex flavor when ripening in moderate temperatures.

Extended Harvest Windows

Without hard freezes or extreme heat, crops produce longer. Kale planted in October can produce through May. Tomatoes planted in fall harvest for 5-6 months. One planting yields multiple harvests.

Pleasant Working Conditions

Gardening in 70°F weather beats 110°F! Winter is when Phoenix gardeners actually enjoy being outdoors with their containers. Take advantage of this comfortable season to spend time with your plants.

Water Conservation Strategies for Desert Gardening

In the Sonoran Desert, water is precious. These strategies help you garden productively while respecting Phoenix's water reality. For detailed watering techniques, see our comprehensive guide to watering container plants.

Efficient Watering Methods

  • Drip irrigation: Delivers water directly to roots, minimal evaporation loss
  • Self-watering containers: Reservoir systems reduce frequency by 50%
  • Timers: Automate early morning watering for consistency
  • Moisture meters: Water only when needed, not on schedule

Rainwater Harvesting

  • Collect monsoon rain—it's naturally soft and slightly acidic (perfect for plants)
  • Even small rain barrels capture significant water from monsoons
  • Rainwater offsets alkaline tap water issues
  • Phoenix offers rebates for rain harvesting systems

Greywater Considerations

  • Arizona allows greywater use with specific guidelines
  • Use only on ornamental plants, not edibles
  • Laundry water can hydrate fruit trees and landscape plants
  • Check local regulations before implementing

Reduce Water Needs

  • Heavy mulching: Cuts evaporation by 50-70%
  • Shade cloth: Reduces heat stress and water demand
  • Large containers: Bigger soil mass = less frequent watering
  • Drought-adapted varieties: Many vegetables have desert-adapted cultivars

Related Guides & Resources

Frequently Asked Questions

What zone is Phoenix, Arizona for gardening?
Phoenix is USDA Hardiness Zone 9b with average minimum winter temperatures of 25-30°F. However, Phoenix's real gardening challenge is extreme summer heat—not cold. With 100+ days above 100°F annually and summer highs regularly exceeding 115°F, traditional summer gardening is nearly impossible. The key insight: Phoenix gardening is inverted from most of the country. Winter (October-March) is your prime growing season, while summer (June-September) is survival mode. Think of summer as Phoenix's version of a northern winter—a dormant period.
What vegetables grow best in Phoenix containers?
Phoenix container success depends entirely on timing. Winter crops (Oct-March, your main season): Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets, peas, beans, all herbs. These thrive in Phoenix's mild 60-80°F winter days. Summer survivors (April-Sept): Only the most heat-tolerant crops—Armenian cucumber, Malabar spinach, moringa, roselle hibiscus, yard-long beans, and sweet potato vines. Avoid: Traditional cool-season crops in summer. Even heat-tolerant tomatoes struggle above 105°F when flowers won't set fruit.
When should I plant a container garden in Phoenix?
Phoenix has an inverted planting calendar: Fall (Sept 15-Nov 15): PRIME PLANTING! Plant tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, all greens, herbs, and root vegetables. These mature in perfect 70-85°F weather. Winter (Dec-Feb): Continue planting greens, root vegetables, peas, and cool-season crops. Growth slows but harvests continue. Spring (March-April): Last chance for warm-season crops before heat. Plant fast-maturing varieties only. Summer (May-Sept): Plant almost nothing. Focus on keeping existing plants alive. Start fall transplants indoors in August with AC.
How do you keep container plants alive in Phoenix summer?
Surviving Phoenix's 115°F+ summers requires extreme measures: Use 10+ gallon containers minimum—smaller pots reach 130°F+ soil temperatures. Water twice daily (5am and 6pm) during peak heat. Provide 60-80% shade cloth from May-September—even desert-adapted plants need protection above 110°F. Use white or terracotta pots only (black pots cook roots). Mulch with 3-4 inches of wood chips or straw. Group containers together and against north-facing walls. Accept that most vegetables will go dormant or die—focus energy on fall garden prep instead.
Can you grow tomatoes year-round in Phoenix?
Phoenix offers excellent tomato growing, but NOT in summer. The season runs October through May: Fall planting (Oct-Nov) produces December-May harvests. Spring planting (Feb-March) produces April-June harvests before extreme heat. Summer (June-Sept) tomatoes fail completely—flowers drop above 95°F, and fruit gets sunscald at 110°F+. The good news: Phoenix's October-May growing window is longer than most northern summers! Plant heat-set varieties (Phoenix, Solar Fire, Heatwave) to extend the season into warmer months.
What are the biggest mistakes in Phoenix container gardening?
Top Phoenix-specific mistakes: (1) Planting in summer—nothing thrives in 115°F heat. Wait until October. (2) Using small containers—these hit 130°F+ soil temps that kill roots instantly. Use 10+ gallons minimum. (3) Southern exposure without shade—full Arizona sun is too intense even for 'full sun' plants. Provide afternoon shade. (4) Watering at midday—water evaporates before roots absorb it. Water at dawn and dusk. (5) Ignoring monsoon season—July-August storms can drown containers in hours. Ensure drainage. (6) Not embracing winter—October-March is Phoenix's gift. Plant aggressively!
How do I prepare containers for Phoenix monsoon season?
Phoenix monsoons (July-September) bring sudden, intense storms that can dump 1-2 inches of rain in an hour. Preparation is essential: Ensure every container has large drainage holes (3/4 inch minimum). Elevate containers on pot feet or bricks so drainage holes don't sit in water. Move containers under covered patios during active monsoon weeks. Check weather daily—storms form quickly. If containers get waterlogged, tip them to drain excess immediately. Don't water for 2-3 days after heavy monsoon rain. Watch for root rot signs (yellowing, wilting despite wet soil).
What herbs grow best in Phoenix containers?
Mediterranean herbs thrive in Phoenix's dry heat: Rosemary, oregano, thyme, and sage are virtually indestructible year-round. Lavender loves Phoenix winters. For culinary herbs: Plant basil, cilantro, parsley, dill, and mint October-April only—they bolt or die in summer. Exception: Thai basil tolerates heat better than Italian basil but still struggles above 110°F. Moringa (the 'miracle tree') grows year-round and thrives in extreme heat. Mexican oregano and epazote are heat-adapted alternatives. Summer strategy: Focus on perennial Mediterranean herbs that survive heat dormancy.

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