How to Grow Nasturtiums in Containers: Edible Flowers & Trap Crop Guide

Why Nasturtiums Belong in Every Container Garden

Nasturtiums are the ultimate multi-tasking container plant. Native to the Andes mountains of South America, they evolved to thrive in poor, rocky soil with irregular rainfall - conditions that make most plants struggle. This means they're perfect for busy gardeners who might forget to water, or for challenging spots like hot, sunny patios.

Their value extends far beyond easy care. Nasturtiums are completely edible - flowers, leaves, and even seed pods all have culinary uses. The peppery, watercress-like flavor adds zing to salads, sandwiches, and garnishes. The immature seed pods can be pickled into "poor man's capers," a gourmet ingredient from a plant that costs almost nothing to grow.

Perhaps most valuable is their role as trap crops. Aphids are irresistibly attracted to nasturtiums, preferring them over almost any vegetable. By planting nasturtiums near your tomatoes, peppers, or cucumbers, you create a sacrificial plant that draws pests away from your edibles. The aphids concentrate on the nasturtiums where they're easily controlled, while your vegetables stay pest-free.

Nasturtium Types and Varieties

Nasturtiums come in two main growth habits, each suited to different container situations.

Bush/Dwarf Types (Best for Standard Containers)

Compact mounding plants 12-18 inches tall and wide. Stay contained without sprawling. Perfect for pots, window boxes, and container edges.

Best varieties: 'Alaska' (variegated foliage), 'Empress of India' (dark red flowers, dark foliage), 'Peach Melba' (cream/red bicolor), 'Whirlybird' series (upward-facing blooms)

Trailing/Climbing Types (Best for Hanging Baskets)

Vigorous vines reaching 3-6 feet. Cascade beautifully from hanging baskets, window boxes, or over container edges. Can also climb with support.

Best varieties: 'Gleam' series (semi-double flowers, mixed colors), 'Jewel' series, 'Spitfire' (bright red), 'Canary Creeper' (yellow, feathery flowers, climber)

Flower Colors Available

Nasturtiums come in a warm color palette:

Classic orange and yellow (most common)
Deep reds and mahogany
Cream and pale yellow
Salmon and peach tones
Bicolors with contrasting markings

Special Interest Varieties

'Alaska': Cream-marbled variegated foliage - ornamental even without flowers
'Night and Day': Dramatic dark-leaved variety with contrasting flowers
'Jewel Mix': Upward-facing double flowers that showcase above foliage
'Moonlight': Climbing type with pale yellow flowers

Pro Tip: For culinary use, all nasturtium varieties are equally edible. Choose based on your container needs (bush vs. trailing) and color preferences.

The Counter-Intuitive Care Guide

Nasturtium care goes against everything you think you know about gardening. The secret to success is benign neglect.

Soil: Poor is Better

The #1 mistake: Giving nasturtiums rich, fertile soil or fertilizer. This produces beautiful, lush foliage and almost zero flowers.

What to do instead: Use average potting mix without amendments. No compost, no fertilizer. If using old potting mix from previous crops, that's actually ideal. Nasturtiums flower most prolifically when they think conditions are tough.

Water: Less Than You Think

Allow soil to dry out between waterings
Nasturtiums are drought-tolerant once established
Slight wilting before watering can trigger more flowering
Overwatering causes lush foliage, few flowers, and potential rot
In containers, water when top 1-2 inches are completely dry

Fertilizer: None

Do not fertilize. Seriously. If your plants look a little stressed and hungry, that's when they'll flower best. Nasturtiums evolved in nutrient-poor Andean soils and respond to stress by producing flowers (to reproduce before conditions worsen). Give them luxury conditions and they have no reason to flower.

Sunlight

Full sun (6+ hours): Most flowers, best performance
Partial shade (4-6 hours): Acceptable, fewer flowers
Hot climates: Afternoon shade prevents heat stress
Deep shade: Poor performance, mostly leaves

Trap Crop Strategy: Sacrificial Gardening

One of nasturtiums' most valuable roles is as a trap crop - a plant specifically grown to attract pests away from your valuable vegetables.

How It Works

Aphids are irresistibly attracted to nasturtiums - they actually prefer them over most vegetables
Plant nasturtiums at the ends of vegetable containers or nearby
Aphids concentrate on the nasturtiums, leaving vegetables alone
Control aphids on nasturtiums easily with water spray
Your vegetables stay clean while nasturtiums take the hit

Trap Crop Best Practices

Plant nasturtiums 2-4 weeks before transplanting vegetables (give aphids time to find them)
Position at container ends or in nearby pots - not mixed into vegetable containers
Check nasturtiums regularly - spray off aphids with water every few days
Accept some damage to nasturtiums - that's their job
Don't spray pesticides on trap crops (defeats the purpose)

Best Vegetables to Protect

Tomatoes: Nasturtiums draw aphids and may deter whiteflies
Peppers: Similar aphid protection
Cucumbers: May help deter cucumber beetles
Cabbage family: Draws cabbage white butterflies to nasturtiums instead
Beans: Protects from aphids

Culinary Uses: The Complete Edible Plant

Every part of the nasturtium is edible, with a distinctive peppery flavor similar to watercress or arugula.

Flowers

Mild peppery flavor, sweetest part of the plant
Stunning salad garnish - whole flowers are dramatic
Stuff with herbed cream cheese for elegant appetizers
Float in drinks or freeze in ice cubes
Best harvested in morning for maximum flavor

Leaves

Stronger, more peppery flavor than flowers
Young leaves are milder - use in salads
Mature leaves can substitute for arugula or watercress
Add to sandwiches, wraps, or pesto
Chop and mix into soft butter

Seed Pods ("Poor Man's Capers")

Immature green seed pods can be pickled into a caper substitute:

Harvest seed pods when green and marble-sized (before they harden)
Soak in salted water for 24 hours
Drain and pack into clean jars
Cover with heated white wine vinegar mixed with salt
Add optional spices (peppercorns, bay leaf, mustard seed)
Seal and let cure for 2-3 weeks before using

Safety Note

Only eat nasturtiums you've grown yourself without pesticides. Never eat flowers from florists or garden centers - they're typically treated with chemicals. Wash all edible flowers gently before use.

Common Problems and Solutions

All Leaves, No Flowers (Most Common)

Cause: Soil too rich, too much fertilizer, or too much water.

Solutions: Stop fertilizing completely. Reduce watering - let soil dry more between waterings. If plants are established, withhold water until slight wilting, then resume. This stress often triggers flowering. For future plantings, use poor soil without amendments.

Aphids

Note: Aphids on nasturtiums are actually part of the plan if using as trap crops!

If control is needed: Spray with strong water stream every few days. Apply insecticidal soap. Never spray pesticides on plants you'll eat. Heavy infestations won't kill nasturtiums - they're tough.

Cabbage White Caterpillars

Identification: Green caterpillars from white butterflies eating leaves.

Solutions: Hand-pick caterpillars (they're easy to spot). Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) for heavy infestations. Some leaf damage is acceptable on ornamental plants. Cover with row cover to exclude butterflies.

Yellowing Leaves

Causes: Overwatering, poor drainage, or natural aging of lower leaves.

Solutions: Reduce watering frequency - nasturtiums are drought-tolerant. Ensure excellent drainage. Yellow lower leaves on mature plants are normal - remove them for appearance. If widespread yellowing occurs, check for root rot from overwatering.

Leggy Growth

Causes: Insufficient light or too-rich conditions.

Solutions: Move to sunnier location (6+ hours). Pinch growing tips to encourage bushier growth. For established leggy plants, cut back by half to stimulate compact regrowth. Reduce watering and ensure no fertilizer.

Plants Dying in Heat

Cause: Extreme heat stress (nasturtiums prefer cool-warm, not hot).

Solutions: Provide afternoon shade in hot climates. Keep roots cool with mulch. In very hot areas, nasturtiums are best grown as spring and fall crops, skipping midsummer. They'll often revive when temperatures cool.

Seed Saving and Self-Seeding

Nasturtium seeds are among the easiest to save - they're large, easy to spot, and remain viable for years.

Collecting Seeds

Allow some flowers to go to seed (don't deadhead all of them)
Seeds develop behind faded flowers - they're round and tan when mature
Wait until seeds are papery and dry on the plant
Collect before they fall (or they'll self-sow)
Dry indoors for another week if needed
Store in paper envelopes in cool, dry location

Self-Seeding

In mild climates, nasturtiums self-sow readily. If you want volunteers next year:

Let some seeds drop naturally at season end
Don't clean up containers too thoroughly in fall
Seeds survive winter in soil and germinate in spring
Thin volunteers to desired spacing

Pro Tip: Nasturtium seeds germinate faster if soaked in water overnight before planting. Nick the hard seed coat with a file if seeds are slow to sprout.

Container Ideas and Display

Hanging Baskets

Trailing nasturtiums are spectacular in hanging baskets:

Use 12+ inch baskets with good drainage
Plant 3-5 seeds or transplants
Vines will cascade 2-4 feet by midsummer
Water more frequently - hanging baskets dry quickly
Perfect for balcony railings, porches, or shepherd's hooks

Mixed Containers

Combine nasturtiums with complementary plants:

Trailing types cascade over edges while upright plants fill center
Pair with herbs like basil and oregano for edible container
Use at edges of vegetable containers for trap crop benefits
Mix colors for cottage-garden effect

Vertical Growing

Climbing varieties can scramble up supports:

Provide strings, netting, or trellis
Gently train vines onto support (they don't cling automatically)
Can reach 6+ feet with support
Creates vertical color on walls or fences

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I use nasturtiums in cooking?

Every part is edible: flowers add peppery brightness to salads and make stunning garnishes; young leaves (less peppery than mature ones) add zing to salads and sandwiches; immature seed pods can be pickled as 'poor man's capers' with similar briny flavor. All parts have a mild, peppery taste similar to watercress.

Why should I let aphids stay on my nasturtiums?

Nasturtiums are famous 'trap crops' - aphids prefer them over vegetables. Let nasturtiums attract aphids away from your tomatoes and peppers. The aphids concentrate on nasturtiums where they're easily controlled with a water spray, while your vegetables remain pest-free. It's sacrificial gardening!

Why is my nasturtium all leaves and no flowers?

Too-rich soil causes lush foliage but few flowers. Nasturtiums evolved in poor Andean mountain soil and flower best when slightly stressed. Avoid fertilizing. Use less fertile potting mix. Reduce watering. If plants are already too leafy, withhold water until they wilt slightly, then resume - this often triggers flowering.

Can nasturtiums grow in shade?

Nasturtiums tolerate partial shade (4-6 hours of sun) but produce fewer flowers than in full sun. In hot climates, afternoon shade actually helps by preventing heat stress. With less than 4 hours of sun, expect mostly foliage with occasional flowers. Full sun produces the most abundant blooms.

Are nasturtiums annuals or perennials?

Nasturtiums are tender perennials typically grown as annuals. In frost-free zones (10+), they can live for years. In colder areas, they die with first frost but often self-seed, returning the following year. Trailing types can be brought indoors for winter, though they become leggy without strong light.

What's the difference between trailing and bush nasturtiums?

Bush/dwarf varieties (like 'Alaska' or 'Empress of India') stay compact at 12-18 inches, ideal for containers. Trailing types (like 'Gleam' series) spread 3-6 feet, perfect for hanging baskets or cascading over container edges. Both are equally easy to grow and equally edible.

Why are my nasturtium leaves turning yellow?

Yellow leaves typically indicate overwatering - nasturtiums are drought-tolerant and prefer dry conditions. Poor drainage, overfertilizing, or natural aging of lower leaves can also cause yellowing. Reduce watering, ensure good drainage, and remove yellowed leaves. If the problem persists, check for root rot.

How do I make 'poor man's capers' from nasturtium seeds?

Harvest immature green seed pods when marble-sized (before they harden). Soak in salted water for 24 hours, drain, then pack into jars and cover with heated white wine vinegar mixed with salt and optional spices. Let cure for 2-3 weeks. The result tastes remarkably like expensive capers.

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How to Grow Nasturtiums in Containers