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Bell Pepper

Capsicum annuum

moderatevegetablewarm-seasoncolorfulslow-to-start
full sun
Light Requirement
moderate
Water Needs
5 gallon pot
Container Size
75 days
Days to Harvest

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Bell peppers are rewarding container vegetables that produce colorful, sweet fruit perfect for salads, stir-fries, and stuffing. While they require patience (they're slow to start), peppers thrive in containers where you can control soil temperature and move plants to maximize warmth and sun. All bell peppers start green and ripen to red, yellow, orange, or purple depending on variety.

Soil Requirements

Rich, well-draining potting mix with added compost. pH 6.0-6.8. Benefits from magnesium - add Epsom salts or dolomitic lime.

Temperature Range

70-85°F (21-29°C) optimal. Very sensitive to cold. Don't transplant until night temperatures consistently above 55°F. Fruits don't set well above 90°F.

Fertilizer Needs

Moderate feeder. Start with balanced fertilizer, switch to lower nitrogen formula when flowering begins. Too much nitrogen produces leaves at expense of fruit.

Quick Growing Tips

  • Start indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost
  • Loves heat - wait until soil is warm to transplant
  • Pick green peppers to encourage more fruiting
  • Stake or cage plants to support heavy fruit
  • Remove early flowers to strengthen the plant first

Growing Details

Spacing:18-24 inches
Difficulty:moderate
Water Needs:moderate
Light Requirement:full sun

Harvest Tips

Can harvest green or wait for full color (red, yellow, orange). Cut with scissors.

Companion Planting

Plant with:

BasilTomatoesCarrots

Avoid planting with:

FennelKohlrabi

Expert Growing Tips

Pinching for Better Plants

When transplanting, pinch off any flowers or small fruit. This seems counterintuitive, but it forces the plant to establish stronger roots first. Plants that fruit too early remain small and produce less overall.

Epsom Salt Boost

Peppers need magnesium for fruit development. Dissolve 1 tablespoon Epsom salt in a gallon of water and apply when plants begin flowering, then again when fruit is developing. This prevents yellowing between leaf veins and improves yields.

Heat Accumulation

Place containers on concrete or dark surfaces that absorb heat. The warmth radiating up into the root zone promotes growth. Mulching with black plastic also raises soil temperature - particularly valuable in cool climates.

Color-Picking Strategy

Leave peppers on the plant until they're 50-75% colored, then pick and let them finish ripening at room temperature. This speeds up the plant's production of new fruit while still allowing you to enjoy fully colored, sweet peppers.

Common Problems & Solutions

Blossom Drop

Cause: Temperature stress (nights below 55°F or above 75°F, days above 90°F), irregular watering, or excessive nitrogen
Solution: Provide consistent conditions. Move containers to sheltered locations during temperature extremes. Water regularly. Reduce nitrogen fertilizer once flowering begins. Be patient - new flowers will set fruit when conditions improve.

Aphids

Cause: Small sap-sucking insects clustering on new growth and leaf undersides
Solution: Spray with strong water stream to dislodge. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil weekly. Introduce ladybugs. Remove heavily infested leaves. Healthy, well-watered plants resist aphids better.

Sunscald

Cause: Intense sun exposure on fruit causes white, papery, sunken patches
Solution: Don't over-prune foliage - leaves shade fruit. Provide afternoon shade with shade cloth during extreme heat. Ensure plants have adequate foliage before allowing fruit to develop. Harvest promptly when mature.

Blossom End Rot

Cause: Calcium uptake disrupted by inconsistent watering patterns
Solution: Water consistently - don't let containers dry out completely. Mulch to retain moisture. Add calcium to soil at planting. Remove affected fruit. This is identical to tomato blossom end rot and has the same cause and solutions.

Great Companion Plants

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my pepper flowers falling off?

Blossom drop is usually caused by temperature stress. Peppers drop flowers when nights are below 55°F or above 75°F, or daytime temperatures exceed 90°F. Other causes include inconsistent watering, low humidity, and over-fertilization with nitrogen. Provide consistent conditions and wait for temperatures to moderate.

Why are my peppers so small?

Small fruit results from: too many peppers developing at once (pick some early), insufficient water or nutrients, too little sun (need 8+ hours), or plants stressed by temperature extremes. For larger fruit, remove some developing peppers to let the plant focus energy on fewer fruits.

How long does it take for peppers to turn color?

After reaching full size while green, peppers need an additional 2-4 weeks to change color fully. This is the longest wait! Colored peppers are sweeter and more nutritious than green. In short-season areas, start peppers extra early indoors or choose faster-maturing varieties.

Can I overwinter pepper plants?

Yes! Peppers are perennials in frost-free climates. Before first frost, cut back by half, move indoors to bright light, and reduce watering. They'll look scraggly but survive. In spring, gradually reintroduce to outdoor conditions. Second-year plants produce earlier and more abundantly.

Why does my green pepper have dark spots?

Dark, water-soaked spots could be blossom end rot (caused by calcium/water issues) or sunscald (white/tan papery patches from intense sun). Ensure consistent watering for blossom end rot. For sunscald, provide afternoon shade during extreme heat or keep foliage adequate to shade fruit.

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