HomeGuidesSpring Container Gardening

Spring Container Gardening: Your Complete Guide to Starting the Growing Season Right

Spring is the most exciting time for container gardeners. As frost retreats and soil warms, a world of growing possibilities opens up on your balcony, patio, or rooftop. But timing is everything. This comprehensive guide walks you through each month of spring, from starting seeds indoors in March to transplanting warm-season crops in May. You'll learn exactly what to plant when, how to protect tender seedlings from late frost, and how to set your container garden up for a productive summer harvest.

What You'll Learn in This Guide

  • Understanding frost dates and planting windows
  • March seed starting tasks
  • April planting and transplanting guide
  • May warm-season crop transition
  • Best vegetables and herbs for spring
  • Frost protection strategies
  • Zone-specific timing advice
  • Spring pest prevention

The Spring Gardening Window: Why Timing Matters

Spring container gardening success depends entirely on understanding your local frost dates and planting in sync with warming temperatures. Plant too early, and a late frost kills your tender seedlings. Plant too late, and you miss the window for cool-season crops while warm-season plants get a slow start. The secret to a bountiful container garden is matching the right plants to the right temperatures at the right time.

What Is Your Last Frost Date?

Your last frost date is the average date when spring temperatures reliably stay above 32°F (0°C). This date anchors your entire spring planting schedule. Everything counts from this date: seed starting begins 6-8 weeks before, cool-season crops go outside 2-4 weeks before, and warm-season crops wait until 1-2 weeks after.

Find your frost date:

  • - Visit weather.gov or almanac.com
  • - Enter your ZIP code
  • - Look for "average last spring frost"
  • - Note both 50% and 10% probability dates

Soil Temperature Matters Too

Air temperature and soil temperature are different. Seeds and roots need warm soil to grow properly. Cool-season crops germinate in 40-75°F soil. Warm-season crops like tomatoes need 60°F minimum; peppers prefer 65°F+. Container soil warms faster than ground soil, giving you a slight edge.

Quick soil temp guide:

  • - Peas, spinach, lettuce: 40-75°F
  • - Beans, cucumber: 60°F minimum
  • - Tomatoes: 60°F minimum (65°F ideal)
  • - Peppers, eggplant: 65°F minimum

Container Advantage: Faster Warming

Container soil warms 2-3 weeks faster than garden beds because containers are elevated and surrounded by warming air. Dark-colored containers absorb more heat. You can also move containers to sunny, protected spots against south-facing walls to accelerate warming. This means container gardeners can often plant warm-season crops 1-2 weeks earlier than in-ground gardeners.

March: Starting Seeds & Preparing Containers

March is the month of preparation and anticipation. While outdoor conditions may still be too cold for most planting, this is prime time for starting seeds indoors and getting your containers ready for the growing season ahead. The work you do now sets the stage for everything that follows.

Indoor Seed Starting (6-8 Weeks Before Last Frost)

Early March is the optimal time to start slow-growing warm-season crops indoors. These plants need 6-8 weeks to reach transplant size, perfectly timed for setting out after your last frost date. Starting seeds is more economical than buying transplants and gives you access to unique varieties unavailable in garden centers.

Start These Seeds in Early March:

  • Tomatoes: 6-8 weeks before last frost. Need 65-85°F to germinate.
  • Peppers: 8-10 weeks before last frost. Need 70-90°F, slow germinators.
  • Eggplant: 8-10 weeks before last frost. Need warmth (75-90°F).
  • Basil: 6 weeks before last frost. Germinates quickly in warmth.

Seed Starting Essentials:

  • Containers: Cell trays, peat pots, or recycled containers with drainage
  • Medium: Sterile seed-starting mix (NOT potting soil)
  • Light: South-facing window or grow lights 14-16 hours daily
  • Heat: Heat mat for bottom warmth (especially peppers)

Common mistake: Starting seeds too early. Seedlings that outgrow their containers before transplanting become root-bound and stressed. Count backward from your last frost date and start on schedule, not weeks early. If seedlings get leggy and stretched, they're not getting enough light.

Container Preparation Tasks for March

Clean & Inspect Containers

  • Scrub containers with 10% bleach solution to kill disease spores
  • Check drainage holes - clear blockages, drill more if needed
  • Inspect for cracks (terra cotta from winter freeze)
  • Inventory what you have vs. what you need

Refresh or Replace Soil

  • Remove old roots, debris, and top 2-3 inches of depleted soil
  • Mix in 25-30% fresh potting mix and compost
  • Add slow-release fertilizer according to package directions
  • If disease was present last year, replace soil entirely

Early Outdoor Planting (Zone 8-10)

Gardeners in warmer zones (8-10) can begin outdoor container planting in March. Your last frost has likely passed or is imminent. This is your prime window for cool-season crops before summer heat arrives.

Plant Now (Zone 8-10):

Wait Until After Last Frost:

April: Transplanting & Direct Sowing Outdoors

April is the busiest month for spring container gardening. Cool-season crops can go directly outdoors, indoor seedlings begin hardening off, and the countdown to warm-season planting begins. Weather can be unpredictable, so keep frost protection materials ready even as temperatures climb.

Direct Sowing Cool-Season Crops

Cool-season vegetables can be planted directly in outdoor containers 2-4 weeks before your last frost date. These crops actually prefer cooler temperatures and will bolt (go to seed prematurely) once summer heat arrives. Get them in early for the longest harvest window.

Leafy Greens

Root Vegetables

  • Radishes (fastest!)
  • Carrots
  • Beets
  • Turnips
  • Green onions

Peas & Brassicas

  • Snap peas
  • Snow peas
  • Kale
  • Asian greens
  • Broccoli

Succession Planting Strategy

Don't plant all your lettuce and radishes at once. Use succession planting: sow a small batch every 2 weeks through April and early May. This extends your harvest over months instead of getting a glut all at once. Lettuce seeds every 14 days ensures continuous salad greens.

Hardening Off Indoor Seedlings

Your indoor-started tomatoes, peppers, and other seedlings need gradual acclimation to outdoor conditions before transplanting. This process, called hardening off, takes 7-14 days and is essential for transplant survival. Skip it, and your plants will suffer severe transplant shock or die.

Days 1-3: Introduction

Place seedlings outdoors in full shade, protected from wind, for 2-3 hours. Bring inside before evening. Focus on acclimating to outdoor temperatures and air movement without stressing plants with sun.

Days 4-7: Building Tolerance

Gradually increase outdoor time to 4-6 hours. Move to partial sun (morning sun, afternoon shade). Begin leaving outdoors slightly later into evening if temperatures stay above 50°F.

Days 8-14: Full Exposure

Move to full sun for most of the day. Leave outdoors overnight if temperatures stay above 50°F (45°F for cold-tolerant crops). By day 14, plants should tolerate full outdoor conditions and be ready for transplanting.

Watch for: Wilting, sunscald (white patches on leaves), or leaf drop indicate you're moving too fast. Scale back exposure and proceed more gradually. Some leaf stress is normal during hardening off.

April Tasks by Zone

Zone 5-6 (Boston, Chicago, Denver)

Last frost: late April to mid-May. Start hardening off seedlings. Plant cool-season crops outdoors in protected containers. Be ready to cover plants for late frost events. Don't rush warm-season transplanting.

Zone 7-8 (Seattle, DC, Virginia, NC)

Last frost: early to mid-April. Transplant cool-season crops. Begin hardening off warm-season seedlings. Late April transplanting of tomatoes and peppers is possible in protected microclimates. Monitor forecasts carefully.

Zone 9-10 (Los Angeles, Phoenix, Austin)

Last frost: February-March (already passed). Transplant warm-season crops now. Cool-season crops may be finishing—harvest before heat causes bolting. Second succession of lettuce may struggle in late April warmth.

May: Warm-Season Transition & Final Spring Tasks

May marks the transition from spring to summer gardening. In most zones, frost danger finally passes, and warm-season crops can take their place in outdoor containers. This is also when cool-season spring crops begin winding down as temperatures climb. Smart planning now sets you up for a productive summer container garden.

Transplanting Warm-Season Crops

Once nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 50°F and your last frost date has passed, it's time to move your warm-season seedlings into their permanent outdoor containers. These heat-loving plants will struggle or die if exposed to cold, so patience pays off.

Transplant Now (After Last Frost):

  • Tomatoes: 5-gallon minimum. Plant deep (bury lower stem). Full sun required.
  • Peppers: 3-5 gallon. Plant at same depth. Need warmth and full sun.
  • Basil: 6-inch minimum. Extremely frost-sensitive. Pinch for bushiness.
  • Eggplant: 5-gallon. Needs heat—wait until soil is warm (65°F+).

Direct Sow in May:

  • Beans: Direct sow after last frost. Don't transplant—beans hate root disturbance.
  • Cucumbers: Direct sow or transplant carefully. Need large containers (5+ gallon).
  • Squash/Zucchini: Direct sow 1-2 per large container (7+ gallon). Vining types need trellis.
  • Herbs: Rosemary, thyme, oregano transplants can go out now.

Transplanting Tips for Success

  • - Transplant on cloudy days or evening to reduce transplant shock
  • - Water thoroughly before and after transplanting
  • - Tomatoes can be planted deeper than they grew—buried stems develop roots
  • - Provide temporary shade for 2-3 days if weather turns hot
  • - Don't fertilize immediately—wait 1-2 weeks for roots to establish

Transitioning Spring Crops

As May temperatures rise, your cool-season spring crops will begin declining. Lettuce turns bitter and bolts, spinach sends up flower stalks, and peas stop producing. Recognize these signals and plan the transition to summer crops.

Signs It's Time to Harvest & Clear:

  • - Lettuce forms a central stalk (bolting)
  • - Leaves become bitter-tasting
  • - Spinach sends up flower spike
  • - Peas turn yellow and stop blooming
  • - Radishes become woody and pithy

Transition Strategy:

  • - Harvest remaining crops even if small
  • - Remove plants and old roots
  • - Refresh soil with compost (25-30%)
  • - Add slow-release fertilizer
  • - Replant with warm-season crops or summer lettuce varieties

May Container Garden Checklist

Planting Tasks:

  • Transplant hardened-off tomatoes and peppers
  • Direct sow beans, cucumbers, squash
  • Plant basil and tender herbs outdoors
  • Final succession sowing of lettuce (heat-tolerant varieties)

Maintenance Tasks:

  • Install stakes, cages, and trellises now (before plants grow)
  • Begin regular fertilizing schedule (every 2-3 weeks)
  • Increase watering frequency as temperatures rise
  • Scout for aphids and other early season pests

Best Vegetables for Spring Container Planting

Spring's moderate temperatures create ideal conditions for many vegetables. Understanding which crops thrive in cool versus warm conditions helps you maximize your container garden's productivity throughout the season.

Cool-Season Vegetables (Plant Early Spring)

Best planted 2-4 weeks before last frost. Tolerate light frost (28-32°F).

Lettuce

Days to harvest: 30-60 days | Container: 6-8" deep, 2-3 gallon | Spacing: 4-6" apart

The quintessential spring crop. Plant leaf varieties for cut-and-come-again harvesting. Succession sow every 2 weeks. Protect from afternoon sun in late spring to delay bolting.

Spinach

Days to harvest: 40-50 days | Container: 6-8" deep | Spacing: 3-4" apart

Thrives in cool temperatures (50-70°F). Highly nutritious and productive. Bolts quickly when temperatures exceed 75°F. Savoy types handle cold better than smooth-leaf.

Kale

Days to harvest: 50-70 days | Container: 3-5 gallon | Spacing: 1 plant per pot

Extremely cold-tolerant and long-producing. Harvest outer leaves for months of production. Flavor improves after light frost. Great for overwintering in mild climates.

Peas (Snap, Snow, Shelling)

Days to harvest: 55-70 days | Container: 5+ gallon, 12"+ deep | Support: Trellis required

Perfect spring crop that stops producing in summer heat. Snap peas are the easiest. Provide trellis or netting for climbing. Nitrogen-fixing roots improve soil.

Radishes

Days to harvest: 22-30 days | Container: 6"+ deep | Spacing: 1-2" apart

Fastest vegetable you can grow. Perfect for impatient gardeners. Spring radishes are milder than summer-grown. Harvest promptly—overmature radishes turn pithy.

Asian Greens (Bok Choy, Mizuna, Tatsoi)

Days to harvest: 30-50 days | Container: 2-3 gallon | Spacing: 4-6" apart

Fast-growing and versatile. Great for stir-fries and salads. Baby-leaf harvest in 20-25 days, full-size in 40-50. Bolt quickly in heat—plant early.

Warm-Season Vegetables (Plant After Frost)

Wait until after last frost date and nighttime temps stay above 50°F.

Tomatoes

Days to harvest: 60-90 days | Container: 5+ gallon minimum | Support: Cage or stake required

The crown jewel of container gardening. Choose determinate varieties for smaller containers, indeterminate for larger. Cherry tomatoes are most productive in containers. Need consistent water to prevent blossom end rot.

Peppers (Sweet & Hot)

Days to harvest: 60-90 days | Container: 3-5 gallon | Spacing: 1-2 per pot

Compact and productive in containers. Need warmth—don't rush planting. Smaller varieties (jalapeno, bell) work best. Stake tall varieties as fruit develops.

Beans (Bush Types)

Days to harvest: 50-60 days | Container: 3-5 gallon | Spacing: 4-6" apart

Direct sow after last frost—beans hate transplanting. Bush types don't need support. Harvest frequently to keep plants producing. Fix nitrogen in soil.

Cucumbers

Days to harvest: 55-70 days | Container: 5+ gallon | Support: Trellis for vining types

Bush varieties fit smaller containers. Vining types need vertical support. Heavy feeders and drinkers—don't let soil dry out. Harvest frequently.

Best Herbs to Start in Spring Containers

Herbs are perfect for spring container gardening—they're compact, productive, and many tolerate cool spring temperatures. Understanding which herbs thrive in cool weather versus which need warmth helps you plan a continuous herb harvest throughout the season.

Cool-Tolerant Herbs (Plant Early)

Start these outdoors 2-4 weeks before last frost.

  • Cilantro: Actually prefers cool weather (60-70°F). Bolts rapidly in heat. Succession plant every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest. Best spring herb.
  • Parsley: Biennial that loves cool temperatures. Slow to germinate (2-3 weeks). Flat-leaf has more flavor than curly. Harvest outer stems.
  • Chives: Perennial that returns each year. One of the first herbs to emerge in spring. Cold-hardy to Zone 3. Cut frequently for tender regrowth.
  • Dill: Cool-season annual that bolts in heat. Direct sow in early spring. Self-seeds readily. Harvest leaves before flowering for best flavor.

Warm-Season Herbs (Plant After Frost)

Wait until after last frost and soil reaches 60°F.

  • Basil: Extremely frost-sensitive—one cold night can kill it. Wait until nights consistently above 50°F. Pinch growing tips for bushier plants. Yellowing leaves indicate problems.
  • Oregano: Mediterranean herb that thrives in warmth. Perennial in Zone 5+. Drought-tolerant once established. Let soil dry between waterings.
  • Thyme: Low-growing perennial. Needs excellent drainage—add extra perlite to soil. Drought-tolerant. Many varieties: lemon, English, French.
  • Rosemary: Woody perennial that hates wet soil. Excellent drainage essential. Can overwinter indoors. Harvest stem tips without taking more than 1/3.
  • Mint: Aggressive grower—always plant in its own container. Tolerates shade. Many varieties available. Pinch frequently to prevent flowering.

Spring Herb Container Planting Tips

  • Group herbs with similar water needs: Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano) like it drier than basil or parsley
  • Use 6-8 inch pots for individual herbs or 12-inch pots for herb combinations
  • Add extra drainage material (perlite, gravel) for Mediterranean herbs
  • Harvest frequently to promote bushy growth and delay flowering
  • Learn companion planting to maximize herb container productivity

Spring Pest Prevention for Container Gardens

Spring's warming temperatures wake up pest populations along with your plants. Early prevention is far easier than treating established infestations. Container gardens have an advantage—elevated containers are harder for ground-dwelling pests to reach, and mobility lets you isolate problems.

Common Spring Pests to Watch For

  • Aphids: Tiny green, black, or white insects clustering on new growth. Suck plant sap causing distortion and yellowing. Spread rapidly in spring warmth.
  • Slugs & Snails: Active in spring's cool, moist conditions. Chew irregular holes in leaves. Most active at night. Look for slime trails.
  • Flea Beetles: Tiny jumping beetles that create "shot hole" damage in leaves. Attack brassicas, tomatoes, and eggplant seedlings.
  • Cutworms: Caterpillars that emerge at night and cut seedlings at soil level. Common in spring when larvae wake from dormancy.

Prevention Strategies

  • Inspect new transplants: Check undersides of leaves before bringing new plants home. Quarantine newcomers for a week.
  • Use fresh potting mix: Old soil may harbor overwintering pests and eggs. Don't reuse soil from infested plants.
  • Encourage beneficials: Plant flowering herbs to attract ladybugs and lacewings that eat aphids.
  • Water in morning: Wet foliage overnight promotes fungal diseases. Morning watering lets leaves dry.
  • Maintain airflow: Don't crowd containers. Good circulation prevents powdery mildew and other fungal issues.

Early Intervention: First Signs of Trouble

Check plants daily during spring—early detection makes control much easier. At first sign of pests:

Aphids

Blast with strong water spray. Apply insecticidal soap if persistent. Introduce ladybugs.

Slugs

Hand-pick at night with flashlight. Apply copper tape around container rim. Use iron phosphate bait.

Fungal Issues

Remove affected leaves immediately. Improve airflow. Apply neem oil or copper fungicide preventatively.

Spring Frost Protection Strategies

Late spring frosts are a container gardener's nemesis. A single unexpected cold night can devastate tender seedlings you've been nurturing for weeks. The good news: containers are portable, giving you protection options that in-ground gardeners lack. Always monitor forecasts through late May in most zones.

Know Your Plants' Frost Tolerance

Frost Hardy (28-32°F)

Lettuce, spinach, kale, peas, arugula, radishes, cilantro, parsley. These tolerate light frost with no protection.

Semi-Hardy (32-35°F)

Beets, carrots, Swiss chard, Asian greens. Handle light frost but may show damage below 28°F.

Frost Sensitive (Above 40°F)

Tomatoes, peppers, basil, beans, cucumbers, squash. Any frost damages or kills these crops. Protect below 40°F.

Protection Methods

  • Move containers: Bring tender plants indoors or into garage overnight. Easiest solution for small collections.
  • Position strategically: Move against south-facing walls that radiate stored heat. Under eaves protects from frost radiation.
  • Cover with fabric: Old sheets, frost blankets, or row covers (NOT plastic touching leaves). Adds 2-8°F protection.
  • Water beforehand: Moist soil holds more heat than dry soil. Water thoroughly the afternoon before a frost event.
  • Use cloches: Milk jugs with bottoms cut off, plastic covers, or commercial cloches protect individual plants.

Weather Monitoring is Essential

Check forecasts daily through late spring. Weather apps and weather.gov provide hourly predictions. Remember: official temperatures are measured 5 feet above ground—actual surface temperatures (where your containers sit) can be 5-10°F colder on clear, still nights. When forecast says 35°F, protect sensitive plants as if it's 30°F.

Zone-Specific Spring Planting Timing

Spring arrives at different times across the country. Your USDA hardiness zone determines your last frost date and therefore your entire spring planting schedule. Use these zone-specific guidelines as starting points, but always verify your local frost date for precise timing.

Zone 4-5 (Minneapolis, Milwaukee, Burlington VT)

Last Frost: Late May to early June | Challenge: Short growing season

March

Start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost. Use heat mats.

April

Continue indoor seed starting. Harden off cold-tolerant crops. Plant peas, lettuce outdoors late April in protected spots.

May

Early May: cool-season crops outdoors. Late May/early June: warm-season transplants after last frost passes.

Zone 6-7 (Chicago, Denver, New York City, DC)

Last Frost: Mid-April to mid-May | Most common zone in US

March

Start tomatoes, peppers indoors. Late March: plant peas, lettuce, spinach in protected outdoor containers.

April

Direct sow cool-season crops. Begin hardening off warm-season seedlings. Late April transplanting in Zone 7.

May

Transplant tomatoes, peppers after frost danger. Direct sow beans, cucumbers. Transition from spring to summer crops.

Zone 8-9 (Seattle, Portland, Austin, Dallas)

Last Frost: February to late March | Advantage: Extended growing season

March

Plant cool-season crops outdoors. Start warm-season seeds indoors. Late March: transplant tomatoes in Zone 9.

April

Transplant warm-season crops. Cool-season crops may begin bolting. Succession plant lettuce in shade.

May

Full warm-season planting. Clear bolted spring crops. Plant heat-tolerant varieties. Focus shifts to summer crops.

Zone 10+ (Los Angeles, San Diego, Phoenix, Miami)

Last Frost: Frost-free or rare | Challenge: Summer heat, not frost

March

Prime time for warm-season crops. Transplant tomatoes, peppers, all summer vegetables. Cool-season harvest winding down.

April

Continue warm-season planting. Cool-season crops bolt in rising heat. Provide afternoon shade for sensitive crops.

May

Focus on heat-tolerant varieties. Mulch heavily to retain moisture. Summer schedule: shade, water management, heat protection.

Month-by-Month Spring Container Garden Checklist

Use this comprehensive checklist to stay on track throughout spring. Adjust timing based on your specific zone—add 2-4 weeks for colder zones, subtract for warmer ones.

March Checklist

Planning & Preparation

  • Look up your last frost date
  • Inventory containers, identify what you need
  • Order seeds if not already done
  • Clean and sanitize containers
  • Purchase potting mix and fertilizer

Planting Tasks

  • Start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant indoors
  • Start basil indoors (6 weeks before frost)
  • Zone 8+: Plant cool-season crops outdoors
  • Zone 9+: Transplant warm-season crops
  • Set up grow lights for indoor seedlings

April Checklist

Outdoor Planting

  • Direct sow peas, lettuce, spinach, radishes
  • Plant kale, Asian greens, arugula
  • Start succession planting (every 2 weeks)
  • Plant cool-hardy herbs: cilantro, parsley, chives

Seedling Care

  • Begin hardening off indoor seedlings
  • Pot up seedlings that outgrow cells
  • Monitor for leggy growth
  • Zone 7-8: Transplant warm-season crops late month

May Checklist

Transplanting

  • Transplant tomatoes after last frost
  • Transplant peppers, eggplant
  • Plant basil and tender herbs outdoors
  • Direct sow beans, cucumbers, squash

Maintenance

  • Install stakes, cages, trellises
  • Begin regular fertilizing schedule
  • Harvest bolting spring crops
  • Scout for pests; address early
  • Increase watering as temperatures rise

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start my spring container garden?
Start 6-8 weeks before your last frost date for indoor seed starting. For direct outdoor planting, wait until 2 weeks before last frost for cold-hardy crops like lettuce, spinach, and peas. Warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers go outside only after all frost danger passes. Check your local frost date at weather.gov or garden.org - Zone 5-6 typically starts outdoors in mid-April, Zone 7-8 in early April, and Zone 9-10 in February-March.
What vegetables can I plant in containers in early spring?
Early spring (March-early April in most zones) is perfect for cold-tolerant crops: lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula, radishes, peas, Asian greens, and Swiss chard. These crops actually prefer cool weather and can handle light frost (28-32°F). Start these 2-4 weeks before your last frost date. They'll be ready to harvest before summer heat arrives, when you can replant with warm-season crops.
How do I know when it's safe to plant tomatoes and peppers outside?
Wait until nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 50°F (10°C) and all frost danger has passed - typically 1-2 weeks after your last frost date. Soil temperature should reach 60°F for tomatoes, 65°F for peppers. In most areas, this means mid-May for Zone 5-6, late April for Zone 7-8, and March-April for Zone 9-10. Rushing these warm-season crops outside too early causes transplant shock, stunted growth, and increased disease susceptibility.
What does 'hardening off' mean and why is it important?
Hardening off is gradually exposing indoor-grown seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7-14 days before transplanting. Indoor seedlings have soft, tender growth that can't handle wind, temperature swings, or intense sun. Start by placing seedlings outdoors for 2-3 hours in shade, gradually increasing sun exposure and time outdoors each day. By day 10-14, they should tolerate full sun and overnight temperatures. Skipping this step causes transplant shock, wilting, and often plant death.
How do I protect my container plants from late spring frost?
Watch weather forecasts closely through May in most zones. When frost threatens: move containers against building walls or under eaves, cover plants with frost blankets or old sheets (not plastic touching leaves), water soil before freeze events (moist soil retains heat), and bring tender plants indoors overnight. Row covers add 2-8°F protection depending on weight. For extended cold snaps, temporarily relocate containers to unheated garages or porches.
Can I reuse potting soil from last year's containers?
Yes, with refreshment. Remove old roots and debris, then mix in 25-30% fresh compost or potting mix to restore structure and nutrients. Add slow-release fertilizer since nutrients deplete over the season. Check for signs of disease or pest eggs - if plants had problems last year, replace at least the top few inches. Never reuse soil where plants died from blight, wilt, or root rot without sterilization.
What herbs should I start in spring containers?
Start cold-hardy herbs early (March-April): cilantro, parsley, chives, and dill thrive in cool weather. Wait until after frost for tender herbs: basil, oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage. Basil is extremely frost-sensitive - one cold night can kill it. Cilantro actually prefers spring's cool temperatures and bolts quickly once summer heat arrives. Plant succession crops of cilantro every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest through spring.
How often should I water spring container plants?
Spring watering needs are moderate - less than summer but more than winter. Check soil moisture by inserting finger 1-2 inches deep; water when dry at that depth. Most spring containers need watering every 2-4 days depending on size, weather, and plant type. Morning watering is ideal - allows foliage to dry before cool nights, reducing fungal disease risk. Reduce watering during rainy periods; cool, wet soil causes root rot in containers.

Related Guides & Resources

Container Gardening for Beginners

Complete getting-started guide for first-time container gardeners.

Container Soil Mix Guide

Learn how to create the perfect potting mix for container vegetables.

Fixing Leggy Seedlings

Solutions for stretched, weak seedlings during spring seed starting.

Succession Planting

Extend your harvest by planting in strategic intervals.

Companion Planting

Which plants grow well together in containers.

How to Water Containers

Master the most important skill in container gardening.

Ready to Plan Your Spring Container Garden?

Get a personalized spring planting schedule based on your location, available space, and growing goals. Our AI planner calculates your exact frost dates, recommends the best crops for your conditions, and creates a week-by-week action plan.

Create Your Spring Garden Plan